Since there is absolutely nothing going on in Squamish due to the inclement weather we are having, I thought I would write about a new line scoped out by Kevin Jorgenson in the Buttermilks. During my last trip to Bishop, I was walking around the boulders with Georg, looking at some of the new super highballs that had yet to be completed. Georg led me to the south face of the Grandpa Peobody boulder where Kevin had hung a top rope to work the moves on what I would call a 'climb of death'. When looking at the route itself, the holds make sense but it certainly doesn't make sense to climb up them. This thing is a monster.
I was just checking the Momentum VM website http://www.momentumvm.com/ and Kevin just recently completed this line. This is absolutely nuts! In the write up, Kevin stated that he wanted as many pads as possible but no spotters. One, who is crazy enough to spot on this kind of thing, and two, I think a human falling from 45 feet would pretty much break you arms off. If you get a chance, also check out Kevins website http://www.kevinjorgenson.com/. I have never met Kevin nor have I ever seen him climb but climbing huge lines like this are pretty inspiring in a 'I am still going to stay ten feet off the ground' kind of way. Here is a picture of the climb I took looking way way up.
I was just checking the Momentum VM website http://www.momentumvm.com/ and Kevin just recently completed this line. This is absolutely nuts! In the write up, Kevin stated that he wanted as many pads as possible but no spotters. One, who is crazy enough to spot on this kind of thing, and two, I think a human falling from 45 feet would pretty much break you arms off. If you get a chance, also check out Kevins website http://www.kevinjorgenson.com/. I have never met Kevin nor have I ever seen him climb but climbing huge lines like this are pretty inspiring in a 'I am still going to stay ten feet off the ground' kind of way. Here is a picture of the climb I took looking way way up.
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