Second Issue of Squamish Climbing Magazine out now!

I am pleased to announce that the second issue of Squamish Climbing Magazine is out now! Download at : scmagazine.ca

Big thanks to all those who made this issue possible!

Scmagazine.ca has arrived!

I am pleased to announce the launching of my new site and the first issue of Squamish Climbing Magazine.  Big thanks to all those who made this possible.  To get your free copy, please go to scmagazine.ca  Hope you enjoy!

Scmagazine.ca August 1st, 2009 (fingers crossed)

Over the past two months, I, along with a number of contributors, have been in the process of creating a magazine designed to feature the local talent surrounding the Squamish area.  Unlike other magazines, Squamish Climbing Magazine will not feature Chris Sharma or Dave Graham, but rather, will feature local climbers making a difference in the Squamish climbing community.  

The first issue is due out August 1st (fingers-crossed), and will feature a spotlight interview with Peter Winter, who is a prominent route developer in the Squamish area, a development article on the Grand Wall Boulders by Mike Chapman, and a trip report on Leavenworth, WA by Rich Kupskay. Other articles include training with Luke Zimmerman, shoulder stabilization with Carla Cupido,  a perspective on Garibaldi at Squamish with Brian Vincent, and even a circuit section featuring 25 V4's in a day including topos and all.  

The magazine will be distributed through the website scmagazine.ca as a free PDF.  This means that you can download your own copy of the magazine to view at your own pace and start your very own collection of issues.  

Stay tuned for more at scmagazine.ca or go to the website and join our mailing list! 

For those interested in advertising for this issue or future issues, please email Tim at info@scmagazine.ca

Squamish Circuits

This past weekend was a slug fest in the boulders, with hot and heavy temperatures on Saturday and a cold wind ripping through the forest on Sunday.  After getting on the stuff we thought would be good on Sunday, a group of us decided to run a new circuit that I created.  The title of the circuit is called '25 V4's in a Day' and it starts on the corrupted boulder and works its way across the forest to end on the problem Timeless.  Although our group starte strong only a few were left at the end to finish it off.  The challenge itself was difficult but well worth the fatigue (I literally thought I was not going to make it at problem 23).  

I know what you are thinking. Where can I get my hands on this circuit? Well you are in luck! Over the past few weeks, I have been working on launching a new site and hopefully, it will be ready to go soon.  One of the features on this site will be a circuit post that includes the names of the problems in the circuit and a detailed map showing where each problem is in the grand wall boulders.  Stay tuned on the blog to find out the location of the new site.  you will not want to miss this one.

Here are some photos of the day. Hope you like!

Izzy getting his Pocket Problem on!
Scott on the Pocket Problem
Israel on Atlas.  Watch out because this guy doesn't wear underwear with those shorts!
Reagan Daly looking causual on Trad Killer.
Matt Lucas toping out Star Fish.
Big Micky on The Golden Bowl.
Izzy giving the stare-down to Charge.
Greg getting grizzly on Child Abuse.

Reagan Daly: Breakfast

I thought the music in this video was so good that I had to post this up here. Israel Cruces has got a new camera and has been filming a lot in the forest.  This is a pretty fun video of Reagan flashing the problem Breakfast at Tiffany's in the Black Dyke warm up area.  Got to love that leg kick at the end!

Kris Holms and the unicycle

So today I was looking for a few email addresses and I came across a site dedicated to unicycling by Kris Holm.  I met Kris at a wedding recently and we mostly talked about climbing but I had no idea that he was this huge unicycle guy.  When I think about unicycles. I think of those guys riding over the Burrard street bridge in the morning and everytime I pass these guys I think to myself, wouldn't  two wheels be a little more practical for the commute?  

In my search, I came across a few videos of Kris doing his thing and it is impressive!  When we were chatting Kris had said that unicycling is like climbing because it is technical and requires problem solving to figure out new challenges.  Now that I have seen the videos, I would have to say that unicycling is balls to the walls!  This stuff seems crazy!

Here is a video.

Squamish News Update

Big news yesterday.  Matt Lucas, after a deep battle with No Troblems has finally sent the problem! Awesome Matt!  It must be that Muira !(not to mention the training regimes and the hard work!)  In other news, Rich Kupskay made as send of Kung Fu Fighter, which he has found difficult for a long time, and from the trad world, I was at a wedding the other day and heard from her brother that Katie Holmes made the first female ascent of Zombie Roof in the last month. Great way to start the summer! Let the summer temperatures stay low...

Squamish News Update

A lot of action in the boulders for a Tuesday night. Where do I begin?  Thomasina and Sam Schwartz both sent No Troblems for the first time.  While they were at it, Ben Harnden and Sonnie Trotter sent Loh Troblems, a low start variation to the original line.   Thomasina also completed King Kong later in the day.  Nice one Thomo!  In a little news of my own, I finally ended up sending Rollercoaster on Black Dyke boulder.  If asked how this problem climbs, I would have to say it has its ups and downs. badoomche!   On a very last note, I forgot to mention that two weeks ago, Rich Kupskay sent Northridge Mini which, in my personal opinion, is quite an awesome feat.  That's it for now folks.  Stay tuned for more summer action and if you have a chance, attend the meeting tomorrow night regarding the ski development in Squamish.

Squamish Ski Resort Development

This morning I received an Email from Brain Vincent regarding the proposed development of a ski resort in Squamish.  This development has been on the docket for years but I think over the past few months it has gained a lot of momentum.  Here is what Brain had to say.  Anyone who can make it to this event should surely go and voice their opinion. Here is the email:

Travel thirteen kilometers north of Squamish, and you find yourself in an area marked by two beautiful lakes, second and old growth forests, high ridges and extraordinary views. This spectacular wilderness area is the jewel of the corridor, and is enjoyed by locals and visitors from all over British Columbia and beyond who seek solace and outdoor adventure in a natural setting.

This land was originally set aside for British Columbians to freely enjoy, however it is on the verge of being handed over to Garibaldi at Squamish Inc. This massive development proposal would cover an area roughly 1/2 the size of Squamish and include: 2 golf courses, 25 ski lifts, 98 km of new road, 500,000 sq feet of commercial space, and 5,739 new housing units (22,000 bed units). 

The ski development is proposed for the stream's headwaters at Brohm Ridge and includes extensive water management plans, including up to five dams, extractions of water for snowmaking, golf course irrigation and potable water supply, storm water and sewage discharge, plus resort development that includes hotels, condominiums and other homes.

Environmental assessments reveal the resort would adversely impact grizzly bear, black bear, wolverine, mountain goat, and salmon and steelhead fisheries.

PLEASE HELP STOP THIS DEVELOPMENT.

WHAT YOU CAN DO:

*Attend the Garibaldi at Squamish open house, Wednesday, June 24. The developers, along with the Environmental Assessment Office, and Ministry of Tourism, Culture, and the Arts, will be giving presentations on the project. They need to hear strong opposition from local residents. Details for open house below:

WHEN: WEDNESDAY, JUNE 24
TIME: 6:30 presentation of project
WHERE: SEA TO SKY HOTEL AND CONFERENCE CENTRE, SEA TO SKY BALLROOM, 40330 TANTALUS WAY

*If you can't attend the meeting, please contact me at brian@bigwildlife.org to learn what you can do. Thanks!

Squamish News Update

Rich, Brent, Gord, Adam, and I went to Hope this weekend and it was off the hook.  We spent Saturday in an area called Hunter Creek that is home to a couple of the best boulders around.  Brent and I both ended up sending a problem we tried last year called The Ice Box.  Hunter is definitely worth the trip so if anyone needs the beta on getting there, let me know.  I am going to try and post a few photos tomorrow

Not much in Squamish new, as I wasn't there this weekend, but during the week Meshkat had a good go on Aftermath and got to the top.  Nice Mesh.  I also heard a crazy story that Ben Harnden (along with Sonnie Trotter) onsight free soloed Rock On and Squamish Buttress.  I guess Ben couldn't find anyone who wanted to climb on ropes that day!

Squamish News Report

Lots to report in Squamish news this week.  First, cougar sightings all over the forest including the Grand Wall Trail and the Smoke Bluffs.  Last I heard the cougar got a dog on a leash Saturday evening and the rangers had shot a cougar sunday morning.  A rough situation all around.  

In sending news, I am super psyched to note that Greg from Victoria (who I don't know the last name because every time I ask him, he thinks I want to add him to my Facebook) finally sent The Egg Friday evening after trying for a long time.  In other great news, Matt Lucas sent Bates Motel after a small battle.  Last but not least, Gord Konkim did Calculus Crack for the third time.  I feel there is something else I am missing.

In development news, there is a rad new boulder problem called Doubt that climbs the arete next to American Gigilo, above Vince's Pinch Problem.  Be careful on the first hold because it is fragile!

Squamish News Update

Lots of things going on in Squamish despite the worst temps and conditions for climbing.  This week wednesday I went to climb in the boulders and after an hour and a half I just gave up.  The place was dead!  

This weekend has been super dead as well but to I am pleased to announce that Luke Zimmerman sent Worm World Low on Friday afternoon.  Luke has been back in the boulders lately after an intense 6 weeks of training weights and dead hanging the campus board.  I also did not report that in the last two weeks he has completed both Tension Extension and Rollercoaster.  Watch out route world.  I hope we see more sends in Luke's future.  I also want to take this time to mention that Meshkat Javid made his first ascent of Fixing the Car aka Autobody the other week. Nice one Mesh!

In more news, I continue to make the plunge into the trad world (only because with the namesake of this blog, it has to be more than just bouldering).   Ben Harnden and I completed Bird of Prey on the Squaw this weekend. I tried to lead the first pitch (70 meters) but ran out of gear half way up.  Ben took over and brought us the rest of the way. Nonetheless, the route was pretty awesome!! Finished up the weekend with a trad lead in the bluffs.  Can't wait to get back!

Please write in if you have any news to report! 

Squamish News Update

With my ear still to the ground, I thought I would post some news from the past couple weeks.  Jeremy Smith has freed a new six pitch line on the Chief directly above the Titanic boulder called Great White North, Tim Doyle added a new problem in The Farm called The Bull that starts on Chicken Lips and moves left across the face and finally, I am pleased to announce that Gord Konkin made his first ascent of Backseat this Sunday afternoon after getting some key beta after four years of work. Congratulations Gord!  Nice one!

In a little bit of my own news, I did my first Squamish mutli-pitch today.  Ben Harden and I went up the route Snake on the Apron.  After placing a bomber piece on lead and feeling on top of the world, I ended up loosing one of my shoes from the back of my harness on the final pitch.  Thank goodness no one was hurt, and even better, Ben found my shoe in the woods where we started the climb.  

Post in if you have any other sends to report over the weekend.  It looks as though the summer is off to a great start.

Tuesdays and Rain

I am here at home waiting for the rain to stop in Squamish.  It doesn't look like it is going to happen today so I decided I would post a few videos because everyone loves video posts. 

The first video is one I stumbled upon that features Robin Avery (a guy i don't know) walking a slack line in the north gully of the Chief.  Pretty awesome I would have to say.  I think the funny part here is that Matt Maddaloni got him to sign a waiver before he walked.  After watching those guys jump into a safety net with holes I don't think  I would be the first to sign that piece of paper!

Squamish North Gully Highline from Robin Avery on Vimeo.

The second video I am posting is a video that was posted on someone's facebook page featuring an unknown climber on an unknown route in an unknown area.  The reason I am posting this is because we have been talking a lot about using new camera angles when filming.  The way this film is shot, it looks as though the camera is swinging back and forth slowly, allowing the camera to capture all aspects of the route.  Let me know what you think.  

Natalija Gros from Jure Breceljnik on Vimeo.

Finally, I am going to post another photo from Walker Kearney that features his trip to Squamish a couple years ago.  This is still the best montage of Squamish climbing that I have seen on the internet from an amateur film maker.  Most people may have seen this already but it is worth a look. Hope you enjoy!  

Trip Report: Fountainebleau Part Three

Everyone is climbing without me today because I came down with a cold yesterday so I thought I would take the time to finish up the Trip Report for Font.  I have left this last post of my Font photos far too long but I ran into some computer problems along the way which has left me sans computer for the past couple weeks.  The psych for these photos has long diminished but I thought I would post them anyways.  

Week Three in Font opened up my eyes to how big Font really is.  I climbed 6 out of 7 days in the last week and everyday we went to a new area that was off the beaten trail.  Each of these areas was pretty big with at least 3o classic easy problems (I use this term loosely because I fell off pretty much all of them) and then a handful of lines that will keep you coming back for more.

Screw John Butters!  Dan making this thing look good!

To start off the week, we got Dan back from the Swedes.  Dan had ditched those of us at the campground during my second week for the high life in a gite with his swedish friends.  After too much cleanliness, he was back in full force.   We also got Gord back from the city so the crew was back to full psych and everyone was climbing together.  Nice!

Gord putting his manclaws to work.

One of the sweetest areas we came to was a place called Gorge aux Chats.  This place had a lot of problems with unique moves and also a few classics to keep us busy for the whole day.  We even got Micky to climb a couple problems here.  All and all a pretty rad time.

Are these guys city workers?  Two guys standing around while one guy does all the work.

Gord getting ready to fly on a red circuit dyno.

What the... is that a new spotting technique you statue-like son of a bitch.

Timbo getting his pig paws on an unknown problem at Gorge aux Chats.

That pretty much sums up the trip.  Hats off to Brent who drew the short straw when driving me to the train station, and actually everyone who made the trip a huge success.  I will definitely be back to Font again.   Till next time Tara..till next time.  

Squamish News Update

Looks like the weather held through the weekend despite the bad outlook during the week.  In climbing news, Thomasina Pigeon sent Encore une Fois on Sunday.  This may be the first female ascent of this problem and the way she did it encompassed a number of extra moves to compensate for her size.  Pretty awesome!

In development news, there is a small new cluster of boulders that have recently been cleaned just past the Funeral Arrangements boulder.   I think these were cleaned by Andrew Boyd and crew.   A couple of classic problems here that are sure to put a smile on your face.  That's all for now folks.  Looks like the rain is going to give our fingers a break for a few days.

Squamish News Update

Great weather had the boulders buzzing this weekend.  I am proud to announce that Luke Zimmerman made his bouldering come back on Sunday with his fist time sending No Troublems. In other news, Rich and I made a one two ascent of the timeless classic Breakfast at Tiffany's, and rumour has it, Tyson and Jeremy Smith sent one of their projects (although I have no idea where it is).   

Video Review: Leavenworth Climbing

So this is the second time this week I have found a video on someone else's blog and put it up here on my own page.  However, after seeing Jamie Chong's first shot at making a climbing video I was pretty psyched.   

So...a couple things that I thought were rad about this video.  First off, the beginning sequence is perfect with the use of the wide angle lens and the music.  The music got me psyched right away because it was so different than other climbing videos I had seen with their boring techno beat. The music gets pretty intense throughout the middle of the video but it kept me tense even when everyone was just sitting around.  

Two moments in video were timed perfect to the music.  The first was when Jamie hits the good hold on The Practitioner and then when Vicki hits the jug on The Shield.  Getting all this music timed out right must have taken Jamie a long time but it was well worth it.  Finally, I was psyched on the use of color and font in the video's word formatting.  The red and white contrast and opposite movements is a simple contrast between sections.  

For a first try, this video is pretty awesome and I am psyched to see more of Jamie's work. Hopefully this link helps a few people see this video who would otherwise miss out (although as of a week ago this video had more hits in one day than my blog has had in two weeks)  Enjoy!

Leavenworth Bouldering from Jamie Chong on Vimeo.

Squamish News Update

For those of you who are hooked on blogs, then the following news is not new at all.  However, for those of you who don't spend too much time on the internet, Sean McColl recently completed the second ascent of Velcro Low and posted a nice video of his send on youtube.  For the whole story and beta you ca go to his website seanmccoll.com.  Enjoy!

Wales Legend: Neil Dyer

This time around in Font I had the good luck to bump into Neil Dyer.  For those of you who don't know Neil, he is not only a top notch climber but he is a gentleman and a scholar true to the word.  Neil has spent plenty of time in Squamish over the past few years both bouldering and trad climbing. In fact, he even is credited with first climbing one of the harder problems in the forest, Stalling Tim, where he snatched the first ascent right under the nose of some local climber who was taking his time socializing in the parking lot.  

All this preamble brings me to a video that was brought to my attention featuring Neil climbing his most recent first ascent in Parisella, Wales.  The problem is called Silk Cut and the uncut video makes it look pretty rad.  Good work Neil!